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How often should antifreeze be changed?

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Today there will be an article on a technical topic. For it is relevant – because in most regions there is heat. Perhaps someone thought about replacing antifreeze – and so, I hope this article will be of some use. To begin with, I want to dispel the doubts of those who have them – because there are many disputes on the topic of antifreeze and antifreeze. So – in fact, this is the same thing, just when this slurry was developed "with us" – it was called antifreeze. And the slurry that was developed "there" was called, respectively, antifreeze. 🙂 This is the topic of a separate article, for those who are interested – write in the comments, I’m making an article on the topic "how antifreeze was developed and why it was called that" 🙂

So. I won’t write a lot, purely numbers and facts 🙂 To avoid further confusion, I will call everything with the common word “antifreeze". 🙂 So. Modern antifreezes, that is, those that you can now buy in stores, are divided into G11 (it is called antifreeze, by the way), G12 and G13. They consist of a base and additives (well, just like oil 🙂). G11, G12, G12+ and G12++ are based on ethylene glycol + distilled water, G13 is based on propylene glycol + distilled water. Actually, here lies the reason that antifreeze needs to be changed from time to time. The fact is that the ethylene glycol + water mixture itself is a very aggressive liquid that corrodes almost everything. This mixture will gobble up the pump impeller, engine block and head … In general, everything that it comes into contact with. If such a mixture is poured in its pure form, your engine travels a maximum of 4-5 thousand km. And then, when you take it apart, the head, the block, and so on, will look something like a tree trunk after a bark beetle. And to prevent this from happening, additives are added to the antifreeze. Well, and more dyes – but this is purely marketing. Therefore, the eternal dispute "which antifreeze is better – red or blue, and if antifreeze is not green – then it is a fake" – this is a dispute about nothing. The quality of antifreeze depends on the base and additives, and the color is a tricky move by marketers. What dye will be poured – such a color will be. Although – in the case of antifreeze, it has historically been customary that blue or green is usually up to -40 degrees Celsius, red – up to -60 degrees Celsius. and so on – it will look something like a tree trunk after a beetle – a bark beetle. And to prevent this from happening, additives are added to the antifreeze. Well, and more dyes – but this is purely marketing. Therefore, the eternal dispute "which antifreeze is better – red or blue, and if antifreeze is not green – then it is a fake" – this is a dispute about nothing. The quality of antifreeze depends on the base and additives, and the color is a tricky move by marketers. What dye will be poured – such a color will be. Although – in the case of antifreeze, it has historically been customary that blue or green is usually up to -40 degrees Celsius, red – up to -60 degrees Celsius. and so on – it will look something like a tree trunk after a beetle – a bark beetle. And to prevent this from happening, additives are added to the antifreeze. Well, and more dyes – but this is purely marketing. Therefore, the eternal dispute "which antifreeze is better – red or blue, and if antifreeze is not green – then it is a fake" – this is a dispute about nothing. The quality of antifreeze depends on the base and additives, and the color is a tricky move by marketers. What dye will be poured – such a color will be. Although – in the case of antifreeze, it has historically been customary that blue or green is usually up to -40 degrees Celsius, red – up to -60 degrees Celsius. The quality of antifreeze depends on the base and additives, and the color is a tricky move by marketers. What dye will be poured – such a color will be. Although – in the case of antifreeze, it has historically been customary that blue or green is usually up to -40 degrees Celsius, red – up to -60 degrees Celsius. The quality of antifreeze depends on the base and additives, and the color is a tricky move by marketers. What dye will be poured – such a color will be. Although – in the case of antifreeze, it has historically been customary that blue or green is usually up to -40 degrees Celsius, red – up to -60 degrees Celsius.

There are three types of additives, in fact, hence the three types of antifreeze – G11, G12 and G13. The "oldest" type of additives is in G11 antifreeze (aka antifreeze 🙂). These are inorganic additives. Phosphates, borates, silicates, nitrites and that’s it. It works as follows. Additives envelop all the insides of what they flow through with a film. Scum type. This film prevents ethylene glycol with water from coming into direct contact with engine and cooling system components, as a result of which the antifreeze removes heat, but does not corrode anything. And so it all works for about 3 years or 60,000 km. After that, the additives begin to lose their properties, the protective film is gradually destroyed and ethylene glycol with water begins to destroy everything that comes into contact with the farther.

G12 antifreeze (usually red 🙂). There are other additives. This antifreeze works in a completely different way – not like G11. The additive here is organic – carboxylic acid. These antifreezes do not create a protective film, so the system cools better. But the centers of corrosion are localized. Simply put, as soon as there is a risk of corrosion starting somewhere, carboxylic acid instantly neutralizes this and no destruction occurs. Such an additive works for approximately 80-100 thousand km or 5 years of operation. After that, the carboxylic acid "ends", since all this time it was spent on chemical processes to neutralize corrosion centers. Well, then, according to the standard scenario, the aggressive base begins to corrode everything it comes into contact with. Pump, pipes, thermostat, head,

G12+, G12++ and G13 antifreezes are currently considered the pinnacle of scientific and technological progress. They are also called labrid or hybrids. Their essence is that both organic and inorganic additives are used simultaneously. There are very few inorganic additives, so a very thin film is created, which practically does not interfere with heat removal. Well, if suddenly this film is broken for some reason, then organic additives immediately come into play. All this allows you not to change the antifreeze for about 200,000 km or 10 years of operation.

Actually, what is the difference between G12+, G12++ and G13. G12+ and G12++ antifreezes are still based on poisonous ethylene glycol. But the manufacturer "plays" with additives – carboxylic acid in the composition of additives is the most, and the rest is a mixture of various inorganic additives. G13 antifreeze is based on environmentally friendly propylene glycol or glycerin in general. Or both at once, in certain proportions.

Therefore, I want to remind those who buy a used car. In addition to the standard oil and filter changes in this case, I highly recommend changing the antifreeze. It is very desirable to flush the system – you don’t know exactly what was filled there at the time of purchase and how much this slurry went through. Since I am engaged in auto parsing – believe me, I know what I’m talking about. Quite often you have to see cars "from the inside", and in those places where car services rarely look. And I have seen enough of all these eaten impellers, falling apart from the inside of the pipes, corroded cylinder heads and blocks. Somehow it is not customary for us to change antifreeze. Many people go crazy over butter, constantly trying to find “the very best” and are very pedantic about the timing of its replacement – and they don’t bother replacing antifreeze at all. You don’t have to do that. 🙂

I hope the article was helpful. Good luck on the roads. 🙂

Source

Post source: wekauto.ru

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